Cochon: imaginative cuisine in unpretentious yet stylish ambience

When someone mentions French food, we tend to think of a fancy place with a sophisticated atmosphere that requires gentlemen to wear a jacket and, of course, has high-prices. None of these clichés are true when it comes to Cochon, a nice joint with a specialty that comes full of possibilities: the Planchette.

Well-located in Colonia Americana—walking distance from Avenida Chapultepec and the U.S. Consulate—Cochon is headed by Tapatio chef Diego Quirarte. Educated in finance and gastronomy, Quirarte has a passion for good food and wine. The simple but hip black-and-white decor includes some innovative recycling ideas with main courses served on rustic ceramic tiles as plates.

After a few years working for respected chefs in Guadalajara, Quirarte started his own venture, an unpretentious yet stylish restaurant with a unique multi-faceted product. Quirarte describes his Planchette as a “big tapa”: a thick slice of artisan bread providing the base for several layers of flavor. The idea of the dish evokes the concept of deconstructed food, breaking down a dish down to its core elements and presenting them in a new form. Thus changing the eating experience while preserving the flavors and textures.

In this way, Quirarte presents a full meal over a bread base. Take, for example, their veggie selection—the Portobello Planchette—served with marinated, grilled mushrooms, mozzarella cheese, roasted peppers and sun-dried tomatoes then covered with an organic salad and pesto.

The house specialty is the Cochon (that’s French for pig) Planchette, a delicacy of slow-roasted pork slices marinated in fine herbs and topped with a bacon marmalade, Dijon mustard and mizuna, or Japanese greens. Other approaches include the Atun Fresco Planchette, a thick tuna steak grilled with a crust of sesame and a garlic and chili twist, topped with mashed yams and coriander foam. The Lamb Arrachera choice comes with cardamom and mint mayonnaise, chimichurri (Argentinian pesto), a chipotle sauce and mizuna. There’s also the barbecued octopus with rustic mashed potatoes and organic salad.

To complete the experience, Cochon offers a variety of entrées and salads with the same imaginative vision, such as the Tartar Tuna Ceviche (68 pesos) with green apples; ukoy (a Filipino garlic sauce) and greens; or the De Verano Salad (64 pesos), an assortment of organic greens with pears, peaches, brie cheese, candlenuts and a delicious vinaigrette.

They also have an ample selection of Mexican artisan beers and a good variety of Mexican and international wines.

House-made dessert choices include butterfat ice cream with chocolate powder and a red-berry compote (32 pesos); and a superb mascarpone cheesecake topped with strawberry ginger compote and peanut praline (37 pesos).

Cochon Gastrobar
General Coronado 5, Colonia Americana, 

Guadalajara, (33) 3825-2864.  Cash only

Le Bistro keeps European flavors true to form

Cedric Defayes got out of banking business in 2009 and returned to Guadalajara to eventually open a bistro with friends he made 10 years before during a stint here as a student.  The steely blued-eyed native of the Alps region of Switzerland serves up European cuisine in his Le Bistro, Le Cava & Le Jardin, just half a block off Avenida Chapultepec.

Le Bistro’s menu is a mixture of French, German, Italian and Spanish recipes, many culled from his childhood cooking with his great aunt and mother, others from Swiss friends with whom he met frequently to cook and drink wine.

Fondues are a house speciality and the base is a mixture of gouda, gruyere and cream cheeses. One variety is tomato centric, others include one loaded with basil pesto, another with mushrooms,  and one with curry, garlic and cumin. A best seller is the fondue with a mixture of gruyere, brie and blue cheeses.

Menu options include vegetarian or meat lasagna, quiche Loraine, spinach quiche, rib eye topped with Cafe de Paris butter (anchovies, spices, curry and garlic) and au gratin potatoes and a plate of tapas-like small flakey pastry served with brie, smoked salmon, serano ham. Daily specials on the board the day we went included  a German-style pork shank or saurkraut with white veal sausage. Other sausages include Polish, schübling and wiener.

Defayes declines to Mexicanize his food and doesn’t serve any chile unless it is asked for. His one deviation from this is a delicious pan de elote dessert. All the desserts are made in house, although the croissants and bread are purchased from a bakery that is up to European standards and tastes. Those with a sweet tooth can enjoy carmelized apple pie, chocolate volcano cake and coconut paradise among other options with a rich, dark Chiapas coffee.

Defayes has a decent wine cellar with more than 30 vintages from around Europe, South America and Mexico. He personally likes Cabernet from Santo Tomas, Baja California’s oldest winery. He also carries a variety of Mexican craft beers and considers many of the Wiess (wheat) brews made here as superior to those found in Germany. During the colder months Glühwein, a spiced hot wine with a cabernet base is available. Monday to Thursday a 3 x 2 offer on almost all beverages is in force from 5 to 9 p.m.

Once a month, Le Bistro hosts guest chefs to cook up special dishes from a specific European Country. Russia’s cuisine will be featured November 12 and 13. A four course meal will be enhanced by traditional and modern Russian music. Special dishes will be offered during the yuletide season and they can host your Christmas party or Posada there as well.

The restaurant has three different areas to choose from: the main Bistro with a view of bustling Avenida Lopez Cotilla, a patio with lots of greenery called El Jardin, and La Cava which is where many couples enjoy a romantic dinner. Hours are Monday to Friday, 5:30 p.m. to midnight and Saturday 1:30 p.m. to 1 a.m. Sunday a brunch is served from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. for only 79 pesos including one coffee.

Lopez Cotilla 1480, Tel. 3615-1800, e-mail: lebistrogdl@hotmail.com 

facebook.com/lebistrogdl 

www.lebistrogdl.com

Chez Chouchou: Revisiting the French Connection

Guadalajara’s trendy Colonia Americana is home to an excellent but inexpensive French restaurant, which we visited again recently, some 6 months after our last review. A collaborative venture between three Mexicans and a Frenchman with contrasting but complementary backgrounds, Chez Chouchou, opened last December, serves a range of gourmet meals, fine French wines and creative and original cocktails.

“Our main goal is to bring a different concept of French cuisine. When you think of French cuisine you automatically think ‘It’s expensive,’ but you can eat here without spending a lot,” says Jonathan Patiño, one of the restaurant’s four founders.

Duck tamale with avocado sauce

Parisian Antoine Pluchet designed the interior of Chez Chouchou opting for a vintage boutique style, reinforcing the inexpensive vibe with home-made adornments and unpretentious paper place mats.

“We wanted a place where you can chill and have a good time,” Patiño says. “If you’re not that hungry you can have a glass of a good wine and if you are hungry then you can enjoy what we have to offer.”

Tuna in red wine

There is plenty to enjoy. The starters include a wonderful French onion soup, goats’ cheese empanadas, mushroom crepes, asparagus with Serrano ham and parmesan, and pear salad with spinach and caramelized nuts. Two new appetizers include a cheese plate with imported brie and camembert and duck confit panuchos (similar to what Jalisco denizens call sopes, but thinner).

It gets even better, with the main courses including salmon, duck a l’orange, ratatouille with rice, a gourmet hamburger, cheese and eggplant ravioli, chicken and mushroom casserole, and Seared Tuna steak with alioli sauce among other items.

The duck a l’orange has proven the most popular dish, Patiño says. “We make the sauce a little bit different,” he explains. “This is French-Mexican cuisine, not your common French cuisine. We add chile morita to give it that little touch of extra flavor.”

Asparagus au gratin with spanish serrano ham

We tried the fresh steamed mussels (a baker's dozen of local or Chilean mollusks) served with white wine, butter and melted brie cheese, served with perfect hand cut French fried potatoes, and had no complaints.

Another favorite for two is the Raclette, a cheese from the Alps served in an electric fondue machine and accompanied by Serrano and turkey ham, cooked potatoes and vegetables and their excellent bread. The bread, acquired from Guadalajara French bakery Ohlala, deserves mention. It is nothing like the Mexican French-style bread, you find in most corner shops. It has a firmer crust, with little air pockets throughout and goes wonderfully with the imported cheeses here.

For dessert, Patiño recommends the “perfect” profiteroles, although this writer can attest to the quality of the creme brulée flambeed with tequila. Sweet crepes are also available. Two newer options include tarta tartin, a caramelized apple tart from Normandy, and canelé, a sweet bread with lots of cinnamon and butter from Bordeaux. Both are served with vanilla ice cream. Their fine coffee is a three-way blend from Chiapas, Oaxaca and Veracruz.

Choux á la crême pâtissiere

Patiño is proud of the wine list, with bottles ranging from 240 to 590 pesos. The house Merlot, which costs 60 pesos for a glass or 210 pesos for a bottle, is excellent. As Patiño says, “usually house wines are pretty dull but this one has lots of flavor and aroma.” According to partner Raul Rivas Ramos their best (though not most expensive) wine is Pomerol, a vintage from Bordeaux's Chateau la Renaissance. It goes well with the duck, other meat entrees and cheeses. Other options include wines from France, Spain, Australia, Mexico and California.

With studies in mixology from the London Shaker bar school, Patiño has devised a range of intriguing cocktails, including the Spring Paris, a mix of white and red vermouth infused with rosemary and grapefruit and mandarin soda, and the Mango Chouchou, a blend of sparkling wine, mango extract, cucumber, cranberry and ginger. A new option here is Strawberry Chou, liquor de cassis with a French sparkling beverage called “Monin” in strawberry flavor.

“I’m very creative in what I do,” Patiño says, explaining that he aims to bring “incredible mixology” to Guadalajara, a city largely bereft of quality cocktail bars. Bottled beer from Modelo and Minerva brewery are also available.

To keep things fresh, the staff are always modifying the menu and introducing new dishes, including the daily special, served from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m., including a starter, main course and coffee for 95 pesos,. The quality of the special is sure to bring customers back to explore what else is on offer.

The service when we ate there was prompt but not effusive, the music: low volume jazz and European big band and seating options included hard backed chairs and a cushioned sofa-like booth with pillows. They now offer a menu in English and a few of the servers speak some English.

This restaurant is not trying to impress you, but make you feel at home. This is not a fast food restaurant; the dishes are all prepared from scratch when you order them. All the ingredients are brought in daily and may run out. 

Prices of starters run from 49 to 120 pesos and main courses from 60 to 175 pesos. Chez Chouchou has seen an uptick in expat dinners from the U.S. consulate and lakeside visitors on day shopping trips. Their TripAdvisor rating is 6 out of 386 restaurants in Guadalajara and many of the positive comments were in French. 

Pedro Moreno 1290 in Guadalajara’s Colonia Americana. 
Open Tuesday to Saturday, 2 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday: 1 to 4 p.m. 
Telephone: (33)3825-0218. Credit cards are accepted except for American Express.
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Around the world on a table

Cosmopolitan Guadalajara is home to a wide range of international restaurants.

There are now so many that it has become harder than ever to decide where to eat out. Fortunately for you, the Reporter has compiled a guide to some of the best foreign cuisine available within the metropolitan zone.

Argentine

Savora (Terranova 122; 3642-7550; Mon-Sat: 1 p.m. to midnight; Sun: 1 p.m. to 8 p.m.) is a must-visit because of its “pepitos,” hearty steak sandwiches best accompanied with melted cheese and chimichurri sauce.

Baires (Niño Obrero 618; 3123-0843; Mon-Sun: 2 p.m. to midnight) has a great range of empanadas, salads, steaks, seafood, pasta, pizza and some delicious sounding desserts.

The Vaca Argentina (Tomas V. Gomez 25; 3630-1160; Mon-Sat: 2 p.m. to midnight; Sun: 2 p.m. to 6 p.m.) is routinely rated as one of the best restaurants in Guadalajara at www.tripadvisor.com (it is currently ranked second) and boasts arguably the best beef and service in the city.

Finally, La Estancia Gaucha (Niños Heroes 2860; 3122-6565; Americas 1545; 3817-1808; Mon-Sat: 1 p.m. to midnight) is another highly rated establishment specializing in steak and ribs, plus all the usual Argentine fare.

Brazilian

Brazilian food means lots and lots of meat. The recently opened restaurant Mr. Pampas (Mariano Otero 1985; 3121-6190; Mon-Sun: 1 p.m. to midnight) serves quality steak, ribs, shrimp and chicken, while Scratch Do Ouro (Prolongacion Americas 350; 3633-9901; Mon-Sun: 1 p.m to 11 p.m.) invites diners to take adavantage of the all-you-can-eat buffet for 240 pesos. At weekends the latter joint also has live batucada music, a samba style percussion with African influences.

Chilean

Famed for its “pastel de choclo” – a kind of corn-topped casserole – Puro Chile (Lopez Cotilla 1959; 3616-5868; Tue-Sat: 2 p.m. to midnight; Sun: 2 p.m. to 7 p.m.) is decorated with photographs and maps of Chile, plays traditional and contemporary Chilean music and stocks a range of top Chilean beers and wines, as well as serving the distinctive national drink, pisco sours.

Chinese

Located beside the Glorieta Chapalita, Shanghai (Guadalupe 1162; 3121-6333; Mon-Sun: midday to 11 p.m.) is a typical Chinese restaurant that serves classic dishes but enjoys a much better reputation than the myriad of low quality Chinese establishments found in downtown Guadalajara. For those in search of something a little different, the lamb with mint, garlic and cumin from P.F Changs (Plaza Andares; 3611-3294; Mon-Thu: midday to midnight; Fri-Sat: midday to 1 a.m.; Sun: 1 p.m. to 10 p.m.) comes highly recommended, while the Dragon de Oro (Americas 1637; 3817-1655; Tue-Thu: 1 p.m. to 8 p.m.; Fri-Sat: 1 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Sun: 1 p.m. to 10 p.m.) has curry, quail, duck and vegetarian options alongside all your oriental favorites.

Cuban

For traditional Cuban food and drink head downtown to Rincon de Aqueremi (La Paz 99; 3614-2569; Mon-Thu: 8 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Fri-Sat: 2 p.m. to 3 a.m.). Elsewhere, La Bodeguita del Medio (Vallarta 2320; 3630-1620; Sun-Wed: 1.30 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Thu-Sat: 1.30 a.m. to 2.30 a.m.) is a bar not a restaurant, but aside from offering mojitos and free salsa lessons it serves a few Cuban dishes including “camarones borrachitos” – shrimp flambeed with rum.

French

Since relocating in 1999, after a couple of false starts in different parts of the city, Chez Nene (Juan Palomar y Arias 426; 3673-4564; Tues: 7 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Wed-Sat: 2 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Sun: 2 p.m. to 6 p.m.) has established itself as one of Guadalajara’s finest French restaurants. Guests can expect friendly service, fresh ingredients and a daily menu based on whatever French expat chef Gerard Faure feels like rustling up.

Another firm favorite is Pierrot (Justo Sierra 2355; 3615-4758; Mon-Sat: 1.30 p.m. to 1 a.m.), an intimate Parisian-style bistro that has been serving excellent, elegant food to Tapatios for over 30 years.

For a host of French favorites, including snails, duck l’orange, croque-monsieurs, ratatouile and crepes, head over to Chez Chou Chou (Pedro Moreno 1290; 3825-0218; Mon-Sat: 12.30 p.m. to 1.30 a.m.)

Alternatively, for a high-end dip, try the rich fondoues accompanied with lobster and caviar at El Fondue Gourmet (La Paz 1887; 3335-9725; Mon-Sat: 7 a.m. to 1 a.m.).

German

Der Krug Brauhaus (Miguel de Cervantes Aavedra 15; Mon-Sat: 1.30 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Sun: 2 p.m. to 7 p.m.) is a microbrewery which serves pretzels, German sausages and wiener schnitzel to accompany its German-style ales.

Greek

With two branches in the city, Agios Aggelos (20 de Noviembre 356, Zapopan; 3833-1131; Mon-Sun: 9 a.m. to midnight / Tepeyac 1379; 3647-3999; Mon-Sun: 2 p.m. to midnight) is the place to go for Mediterranean cuisine. The menu includes kebabs, a wonderful moussaka and delicious goat’s cheese salads that combine perfectly with tzatziki and balsamic vinegar.

Indian

Serving naan bread, samosas and spicy Indian classics, Goa (Lopez Cotilla 1520; 3615-6173; Tues-Sat: 1 p.m. to midight; Sun: 1 p.m. to 8 p.m.) is probably Guadalajara’s best known curry house, but the food is even better just a few blocks away at Little India (Miguel de Cervantes 149; 3630-9315; Mon-Sun: 1.30 p.m. to 11.30 p.m.), which boasts a large, authentic menu with many meat and vegetarian options.

Italian

A relatively new restaurant, La Pasteria (Terranova 1171; 3642-6797) serves nothing but freshly cooked pasta in a variety of sumptuous sauces, plus some non-pasta starters including stuffed aubergine and breaded mozzarella balls. The spinach and ricotta ravioli in pine-nut sauce is excellent.

Elsewhere, La Trattoria (Niños Heroes 3051; 3122-1817; Mon-Sat: 1 p.m. to midnight; Sun: 1 p.m. to 9 p.m.) is a popular and unpretentious option, with a wide selection of pizzas, pasta, meats, seafood, a complimentary salad bar and classics such as tiramisu and panna cotta for dessert. Open since 1976, this establishment is known for its great service and a warm atmosphere.

The simply named El Italiano (Avenida Mexico 3130; 3813-2984; Mon-Thu: 1 p.m. to midnight; Fri-Sat: 1 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Sun: 1 p.m. to 11 p.m.) is also highly rated for its delicious, well presented dishes and perhaps the finest gourmet pizzas to be found in Guadalajara.

Japanese

With very fresh fish and a good selection of beers from all over the world, Toyo (Avenida Mexico 2097; 3616-3513; Mon-Sat: 1 p.m. to 1 p.m.; Sun: 1 p.m.  to 8 p.m.) is one of the best rated Japanese restaurants in Guadalajara. The owners also run a shop next door selling rare and exotic ingredients.

A Japanese chain, Moshi Moshi (Plaza Andares; 3611-1144; Mon-Tue: 1.30 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Thu: 1.30 p.m. to midnight; Fri-Sat: 1.30 p.m. to 1.30 a.m.; Sun: 1.30 p.m. to 10 p.m.) has a revolving belt laden with 34 types of sushi, including crab, shrimp, avocado and cucumber variations. Traditional meals such as tempura and sashimi are also available, while the drinks menu includes saki, some great cocktails, and Calpico, a non-carbonated Japanese soft drink made from non-fat milk.

Korean

Gami (Bernardo de Balbuena 872; 3642-5809; Mon-Sun: 1 p.m. to 10 p.m.) does Korean-style seafood, with shrimp, crab, salmon and octopus dishes big enough to share between two or three people.

Lebanese

For an exotic experience, go to Beirut (Lopez Mateos 1308; 3120-5050; Tue-Thu: 2 p.m. to midnight; Fri-Sat: 2 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Sun:  2 p.m to 6 p.m.) for a tasty “taco arabe,” a relaxing smoke in the shisha bar, or to watch the bellydancing show every Friday at 9.30 p.m.

El Libanes (Lopez Mateos Sur 550; 3121-3009; Tue: 1.30 p.m. to 9.30 p.m.; Wed-Sat: 1.30 p.m. to 2 a.m.; Sun: 1.30 p.m. to 6 p.m.) also has belly dancing every Saturday and Sunday, plus a buffet with over 30 dishes from Thursday to Sunday, and “bohemian nights” which include dinner, singing and dancing every Wednesday and Thursday.

For a simpler dining experience, Shawarma (Inglaterra 4964; 3629-1640; Mon-Sat: midday to 11 p.m.; Sun: midday to 7 p.m.) is a small eatery that serves kebabs, falafel and a tasty date flan.

Portuguese

Portugalia (Hidalgo 1364; 3825-3404; Mon-Sun: 1.30 p.m. to midnight) is a Portuguese diner run by a Lisbon native who has lived in Guadalajara for 18 years. The ever-changing menu includes soups, cod, shrimp, octopus and other seafood dishes, Angolan influences and traditional Portuguese desserts.

Elsewhere, Fonda Portuguesa (Morelos 1695; 1368-2600; Mon-Thu: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Fri: 9 a.m. to 1 a.m.; Sat: 1.30 p.m. to 1 a.m.) is a simple place that serves tapas, sandwiches, salads and cod in many forms.

Spanish

Visit Chemary (Guadalupe 596; 3121-2951; Mon-Sun: 1 p.m. to midnight) to enjoy traditional Spanish cuisine and exquisite cava while listening to live pianists.

If you want to throw a Spanish style fiesta at home, Paella Club (Guadalupe 4205; 3121-6008; Mon-Sun: 8 a.m. to 11 p.m.) is a great place to bulk buy paella.

Another option for Spanish and international dishes is Recoveco (Agustin Yañez 2639; 3616-5627; Mon-Sat: 1 p.m. to 1 a.m.), while Riscal (Lopez Cotilla 1751; 3616-8677; Mon-Fri: 2 p.m. to 10 p.m., Sat-Sun: 2 p.m. to 6 p.m.) serves paella and San Sebastian style robalo.

Thai

Tai Spice (Inglaterra 4887; 3110-6388; Mon-Thu: 1 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Fri-Sat: 1 p.m. to midnight; Sun: midday to 8 p.m.) has a wonderful menu featuring red or green thai curry, salads, soups and chicken, beef, duck or shrimp variations with plenty of exotic ingredients such as coconut, ginger, lemongrass, fish sauce and peanuts.

Uruguayan

La Parrilla del Uruguay (Olivos 14, Prados Tepeyac; 3647-9066) is a steakhouse run by a former professional soccer player and decorated with memorabilia from his playing days. Not unlike the city’s Argentine restaurants, La Parrilla is popular for its choripan and fine cuts of meat.