Once a grand vacation home visited by Mexico's leading politicians, business entrepreneurs and other well known personalities, the building dates back to the turn-of-the-century and the presidency of Porfirio Diaz - a time considered as Chapala's golden era. Built almost entirely with materials imported from Europe, right down to the brick, most of the original features of the structure remain intact today, Hernandez says.
Luis Perez Verdia, a noted Mexican writer and politician, began construction on the elegant home in 1903. By the time work was completed in 1906, the building had already changed hands. Many of the final details were added by second owner, Alberto Braniff, whose family founded the U.S. airline of the same name. He kept the mansion for nearly 50 years, explaining why it is still widely referred to as Casa Braniff.
The building has been in Hernandez's family since 1970, when his grandfather, Jose Luis Martinez Covarrubias, bought it from Jalisco industrialist Zenen Camarena. The family founded Guadalajara's prestigious Cazadores chain in the mid-1950's and Martinez opened the Chapala restaurant in 1971. Concern over unsatisfactory outside administration and dwindling clientele spurred Hernandez to take over management of the local branch more than a decade ago.
The now experienced restaurateur shows equal pride in both his business and the extraordinary building in which it is housed. Proof of Hernandez's tireless hands-on management style became apparent when this writer called to schedule an interview, only to learn that he was working in the kitchen and "not available to pick up the phone."
"We strive to provide excellent service and attractive, appetizing platters," Hernandez says as we begin reviewing the extensive Cazadores menu. "We don't pretend to run a gourmet kitchen; it is simple food made always with the freshest ingredients."
Simple fare
Imported beef and tortillas made by hand and served hot off the comal are examples of the kind of quality he demands.
Main courses include a wide selection of meat, poultry and seafood dishes, complemented by the house specialty: Chamorro en mole casero (145 pesos), a hearty pork shank bathed in the classic Mexican sauce prepare according to a secret family recipe, wrapped in banana leaves and cooked to tender perfection. Among other popular menu selections are Tabla Especial (charcoal grilled pork loin and beef fillet served on a plank, 130 pesos), and a variety of regional delicacies such as Caviar de Chapala (a spicy carp roe appetizer, 80 pesos) - and Patzcuaro white fish.
The manager suggests local residents keep an eye out for regular ads in The Guadalajara Reporter promoting special short-term discounts available to members of different community organizations.
Hernandez says assuring friendly, attentive service to foreign customers has been one of his chief goals. Under his watch Cazadores pays close attention to the details he believes are important to this clientele, from extreme care for hygiene in the kitchen and food handling, to special touches like linen napkins. Intent on offering the best in hospitality, he works as arduously at improving his English as he does at training his waiters about all the niceties of serving the customer.
In addition to a focus on providing good food at affordable prices, Hernandez makes an effort to keep diners as happy and comfortable as possible in their surroundings. He selects background music he thinks will appeal to the clients on hand at any given moment. He tries to guide older adult customers to one end of the long outdoor porch where most clients enjoy their meals, seating families with small children to the opposite end where there is a small play area.
When time allows, Hernandez also enjoys acting as tour guide, showing his guests around Casa Braniff and pointing out the original silk tapestry wall coverings, stained glass windows, beveled and etched glass panes in the doors, handsomely adorned ceilings, fireplaces, and a stern portrait of Porfirio Diaz, who vacationed regularly at the house. There are lots of other treasures to see, including a huge wedding portrait of Hernandez' grandparents from the 1930s, and assorted antiques collected by his family.
With a growing regular clientele and expectations of receiving plenty of Easter holiday visitors, Hernandez is confident that the hard work of the Cazadores staff is starting to pay off. A personal perspective has made this writer believe the restaurant's cordial, energetic manager will be successful in keeping this historical Chapala landmark and long-known dining spot on the map.
Open Tue-Sun 1:00 to 8:00 pm
Phone: (376) 765-2162
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