Cochon: imaginative cuisine in unpretentious yet stylish ambience

When someone mentions French food, we tend to think of a fancy place with a sophisticated atmosphere that requires gentlemen to wear a jacket and, of course, has high-prices. None of these clichés are true when it comes to Cochon, a nice joint with a specialty that comes full of possibilities: the Planchette.

Well-located in Colonia Americana—walking distance from Avenida Chapultepec and the U.S. Consulate—Cochon is headed by Tapatio chef Diego Quirarte. Educated in finance and gastronomy, Quirarte has a passion for good food and wine. The simple but hip black-and-white decor includes some innovative recycling ideas with main courses served on rustic ceramic tiles as plates.

After a few years working for respected chefs in Guadalajara, Quirarte started his own venture, an unpretentious yet stylish restaurant with a unique multi-faceted product. Quirarte describes his Planchette as a “big tapa”: a thick slice of artisan bread providing the base for several layers of flavor. The idea of the dish evokes the concept of deconstructed food, breaking down a dish down to its core elements and presenting them in a new form. Thus changing the eating experience while preserving the flavors and textures.

In this way, Quirarte presents a full meal over a bread base. Take, for example, their veggie selection—the Portobello Planchette—served with marinated, grilled mushrooms, mozzarella cheese, roasted peppers and sun-dried tomatoes then covered with an organic salad and pesto.

The house specialty is the Cochon (that’s French for pig) Planchette, a delicacy of slow-roasted pork slices marinated in fine herbs and topped with a bacon marmalade, Dijon mustard and mizuna, or Japanese greens. Other approaches include the Atun Fresco Planchette, a thick tuna steak grilled with a crust of sesame and a garlic and chili twist, topped with mashed yams and coriander foam. The Lamb Arrachera choice comes with cardamom and mint mayonnaise, chimichurri (Argentinian pesto), a chipotle sauce and mizuna. There’s also the barbecued octopus with rustic mashed potatoes and organic salad.

To complete the experience, Cochon offers a variety of entrées and salads with the same imaginative vision, such as the Tartar Tuna Ceviche (68 pesos) with green apples; ukoy (a Filipino garlic sauce) and greens; or the De Verano Salad (64 pesos), an assortment of organic greens with pears, peaches, brie cheese, candlenuts and a delicious vinaigrette.

They also have an ample selection of Mexican artisan beers and a good variety of Mexican and international wines.

House-made dessert choices include butterfat ice cream with chocolate powder and a red-berry compote (32 pesos); and a superb mascarpone cheesecake topped with strawberry ginger compote and peanut praline (37 pesos).

Cochon Gastrobar
General Coronado 5, Colonia Americana, 

Guadalajara, (33) 3825-2864.  Cash only

Le Bistro keeps European flavors true to form

Cedric Defayes got out of banking business in 2009 and returned to Guadalajara to eventually open a bistro with friends he made 10 years before during a stint here as a student.  The steely blued-eyed native of the Alps region of Switzerland serves up European cuisine in his Le Bistro, Le Cava & Le Jardin, just half a block off Avenida Chapultepec.

Le Bistro’s menu is a mixture of French, German, Italian and Spanish recipes, many culled from his childhood cooking with his great aunt and mother, others from Swiss friends with whom he met frequently to cook and drink wine.

Fondues are a house speciality and the base is a mixture of gouda, gruyere and cream cheeses. One variety is tomato centric, others include one loaded with basil pesto, another with mushrooms,  and one with curry, garlic and cumin. A best seller is the fondue with a mixture of gruyere, brie and blue cheeses.

Menu options include vegetarian or meat lasagna, quiche Loraine, spinach quiche, rib eye topped with Cafe de Paris butter (anchovies, spices, curry and garlic) and au gratin potatoes and a plate of tapas-like small flakey pastry served with brie, smoked salmon, serano ham. Daily specials on the board the day we went included  a German-style pork shank or saurkraut with white veal sausage. Other sausages include Polish, schübling and wiener.

Defayes declines to Mexicanize his food and doesn’t serve any chile unless it is asked for. His one deviation from this is a delicious pan de elote dessert. All the desserts are made in house, although the croissants and bread are purchased from a bakery that is up to European standards and tastes. Those with a sweet tooth can enjoy carmelized apple pie, chocolate volcano cake and coconut paradise among other options with a rich, dark Chiapas coffee.

Defayes has a decent wine cellar with more than 30 vintages from around Europe, South America and Mexico. He personally likes Cabernet from Santo Tomas, Baja California’s oldest winery. He also carries a variety of Mexican craft beers and considers many of the Wiess (wheat) brews made here as superior to those found in Germany. During the colder months Glühwein, a spiced hot wine with a cabernet base is available. Monday to Thursday a 3 x 2 offer on almost all beverages is in force from 5 to 9 p.m.

Once a month, Le Bistro hosts guest chefs to cook up special dishes from a specific European Country. Russia’s cuisine will be featured November 12 and 13. A four course meal will be enhanced by traditional and modern Russian music. Special dishes will be offered during the yuletide season and they can host your Christmas party or Posada there as well.

The restaurant has three different areas to choose from: the main Bistro with a view of bustling Avenida Lopez Cotilla, a patio with lots of greenery called El Jardin, and La Cava which is where many couples enjoy a romantic dinner. Hours are Monday to Friday, 5:30 p.m. to midnight and Saturday 1:30 p.m. to 1 a.m. Sunday a brunch is served from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. for only 79 pesos including one coffee.

Lopez Cotilla 1480, Tel. 3615-1800, e-mail: lebistrogdl@hotmail.com 

facebook.com/lebistrogdl 

www.lebistrogdl.com

Chez Chouchou: Revisiting the French Connection

Guadalajara’s trendy Colonia Americana is home to an excellent but inexpensive French restaurant, which we visited again recently, some 6 months after our last review. A collaborative venture between three Mexicans and a Frenchman with contrasting but complementary backgrounds, Chez Chouchou, opened last December, serves a range of gourmet meals, fine French wines and creative and original cocktails.

“Our main goal is to bring a different concept of French cuisine. When you think of French cuisine you automatically think ‘It’s expensive,’ but you can eat here without spending a lot,” says Jonathan Patiño, one of the restaurant’s four founders.

Duck tamale with avocado sauce

Parisian Antoine Pluchet designed the interior of Chez Chouchou opting for a vintage boutique style, reinforcing the inexpensive vibe with home-made adornments and unpretentious paper place mats.

“We wanted a place where you can chill and have a good time,” Patiño says. “If you’re not that hungry you can have a glass of a good wine and if you are hungry then you can enjoy what we have to offer.”

Tuna in red wine

There is plenty to enjoy. The starters include a wonderful French onion soup, goats’ cheese empanadas, mushroom crepes, asparagus with Serrano ham and parmesan, and pear salad with spinach and caramelized nuts. Two new appetizers include a cheese plate with imported brie and camembert and duck confit panuchos (similar to what Jalisco denizens call sopes, but thinner).

It gets even better, with the main courses including salmon, duck a l’orange, ratatouille with rice, a gourmet hamburger, cheese and eggplant ravioli, chicken and mushroom casserole, and Seared Tuna steak with alioli sauce among other items.

The duck a l’orange has proven the most popular dish, Patiño says. “We make the sauce a little bit different,” he explains. “This is French-Mexican cuisine, not your common French cuisine. We add chile morita to give it that little touch of extra flavor.”

Asparagus au gratin with spanish serrano ham

We tried the fresh steamed mussels (a baker's dozen of local or Chilean mollusks) served with white wine, butter and melted brie cheese, served with perfect hand cut French fried potatoes, and had no complaints.

Another favorite for two is the Raclette, a cheese from the Alps served in an electric fondue machine and accompanied by Serrano and turkey ham, cooked potatoes and vegetables and their excellent bread. The bread, acquired from Guadalajara French bakery Ohlala, deserves mention. It is nothing like the Mexican French-style bread, you find in most corner shops. It has a firmer crust, with little air pockets throughout and goes wonderfully with the imported cheeses here.

For dessert, Patiño recommends the “perfect” profiteroles, although this writer can attest to the quality of the creme brulée flambeed with tequila. Sweet crepes are also available. Two newer options include tarta tartin, a caramelized apple tart from Normandy, and canelé, a sweet bread with lots of cinnamon and butter from Bordeaux. Both are served with vanilla ice cream. Their fine coffee is a three-way blend from Chiapas, Oaxaca and Veracruz.

Choux á la crême pâtissiere

Patiño is proud of the wine list, with bottles ranging from 240 to 590 pesos. The house Merlot, which costs 60 pesos for a glass or 210 pesos for a bottle, is excellent. As Patiño says, “usually house wines are pretty dull but this one has lots of flavor and aroma.” According to partner Raul Rivas Ramos their best (though not most expensive) wine is Pomerol, a vintage from Bordeaux's Chateau la Renaissance. It goes well with the duck, other meat entrees and cheeses. Other options include wines from France, Spain, Australia, Mexico and California.

With studies in mixology from the London Shaker bar school, Patiño has devised a range of intriguing cocktails, including the Spring Paris, a mix of white and red vermouth infused with rosemary and grapefruit and mandarin soda, and the Mango Chouchou, a blend of sparkling wine, mango extract, cucumber, cranberry and ginger. A new option here is Strawberry Chou, liquor de cassis with a French sparkling beverage called “Monin” in strawberry flavor.

“I’m very creative in what I do,” Patiño says, explaining that he aims to bring “incredible mixology” to Guadalajara, a city largely bereft of quality cocktail bars. Bottled beer from Modelo and Minerva brewery are also available.

To keep things fresh, the staff are always modifying the menu and introducing new dishes, including the daily special, served from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m., including a starter, main course and coffee for 95 pesos,. The quality of the special is sure to bring customers back to explore what else is on offer.

The service when we ate there was prompt but not effusive, the music: low volume jazz and European big band and seating options included hard backed chairs and a cushioned sofa-like booth with pillows. They now offer a menu in English and a few of the servers speak some English.

This restaurant is not trying to impress you, but make you feel at home. This is not a fast food restaurant; the dishes are all prepared from scratch when you order them. All the ingredients are brought in daily and may run out. 

Prices of starters run from 49 to 120 pesos and main courses from 60 to 175 pesos. Chez Chouchou has seen an uptick in expat dinners from the U.S. consulate and lakeside visitors on day shopping trips. Their TripAdvisor rating is 6 out of 386 restaurants in Guadalajara and many of the positive comments were in French. 

Pedro Moreno 1290 in Guadalajara’s Colonia Americana. 
Open Tuesday to Saturday, 2 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday: 1 to 4 p.m. 
Telephone: (33)3825-0218. Credit cards are accepted except for American Express.
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Number Four hits all the right notes

If you’ve not been to Kim Everst’s Number Four resturant in Ajijic, then you’re missing out. The wine list is ample, categorized by price and well designed for the novice with descriptions of each bottle’s flavor, the cocktail selection includes all the favorites and a lively martini list and the menu is just broad enough but still kept to four pages (bilingual) and a one page special sheet.

The dishes are prepared with an eye for art and a sense of pleasure for the palate. Chef Glenroy Anderson is experienced (Toronto, Jamaica, Mexico) and willing to take chances, but doesn’t skimp on ingredients or portion size.

Service was immeditate and personalized. A warm loaf of bread with creamy butter was on the table before we settled in.

My date and I started with traditional Margaritas with a good reposado tequila — tart and stiff.
Then we dived into the Greek appetizer  for two with fried eggplant and a salad served with Kalamata olives, a Tzadziki yogurt dressing and fried pita bread. If we weren’t so hungry we might have just gazed at it for a while longer, it looked so good.

The main courses included a “Tall Boys” thin crust pizza. It was better than many renowned Italian restaurants in Guadalajara serve up and full of lusiously herb-roasted mushrooms, grilled peppers, quality pepperoni and lots of real mozzarella cheese on a flaky thin crust. We ate half of it the next day cold and it was still excellent.

The crispy duck confit served over a bed of mashed sweet potatoes with a jamaica, blackberry, ginger and port glaze, was fantastic.

A glass of reasonably priced Spanish Cal y Canto, a blend of Tempranillo-Merlot and Shiraz complemented the duck perfectly.

Desserts included a non-flour chocolate cake that was a hit with a strong expresso and a tart lemon mousse that was smooth and bright on the tongue.

That night the place was fairly packed due to the twice monthly performance by Ajijic’s own Tall Boys band. Dozens of 60+plus expats grooved on the dancefloor  with hip 30- and 40-something Tapatios down for the weekend to the band’s ‘60s and ‘70s covers and their own Mexico-themed tunes. Even a hard rain during the second set couldn’t dispell the Tall Boys’ energy.

Ok, I haven’t mentioned the prices. They are more than fair for the quality  served.  You might drop 800 to 1,000 pesos before wine at dinner if you have a three-couse meal for two with a couple of cocktails Maybe half that for lunch.  But you won’t regret it.

NUMBER FOUR RESTAURANT

2011 | Donato Guerra No.4 Ajijic Ph: 376 766-1360

Open Friday 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. / Saturday  2 p.m. to 11 p.m. 

Sunday 2 p.m. to 8 p.m. / Monday 6 p.m. to 10 p.m.

 

See more at www.restaurantnumberfour.com

Primer Piso: The true house of jazz in GDL

After a long career in the media and art world, Eduardo Diaz Barraza, a middle aged tapatio was taking a trip across France when the idea of a new venture hit him. The cozy bars in Paris enchanted him, and once back in Guadalajara he dedicated himself to find the perfect place to start his own jazz bar, the first one in the city since the closing of the legendary Copenhagen 77 more than a decade ago.
 

Despite an appreciative, but small audience for jazz in Guadalajara, (well-known figures as Dizzy Guillespie, Lionel Hampton and Woody Shaw have performed in Teatro Degollado), the path for jazz musicians here has always been rocky. Once in a while a new venue opens its stage for jazz nights or simple jams, but for many years, no place in town had five jazz performances a week.

Since opening six years ago, Primer Piso Copas & Cafe has been the undisputed house of jazz in Guadalajara.  It has been a launch platform for several popular bands including Jazz Break, San Juan Project, Trokker and KM Big Band. The city’s most respected and skilled performers and band leaders call it home — Willy Zavala, Klaus Mayer, Omar Ramirez, divas like Abi Vazquez, Monica Zuloaga and Ana Sandoval and a flock of newcomers that foreshadow a new golden era for jazz in Guadalajara.

The sophistocated baroque decor, by local architect Luis Othon Villegas, (self-defined as retro, glam, and vintage) contrasts with the sober 1950’s building where the bar is located (on the second floor). A wall of windows offers marvelous views of the surroundings, including the magnificent university auditorium and the gothic Expiatorio. In the last year, success forced Diaz to extend the emporium to the second floor, adding to Primer Piso an art gallery and a pleasant smoking area.

Open Tuesday to Saturday from 7 p.m., Primer Piso whips up gourmet specialties beginning at 7:30 p.m. from the chef’s gastro-bar menu, along with a regular menu that includes tapas, salads, sandwiches and sweets. The barman is able to prepare most cocktail orders. Tuesdays drinks and beer are two for one all night. Live music usually starts about 9 p.m. 

To see who’s playing see their website: www.primerpisobar.com. 

 PRIMER PISO COPAS Y CAFE

Pedro Moreno 947, corner of Escorza. (just one block off Av. Juarez)

Colonia Americana. Tel. (33) 3825-7085. 

Open Tuesday to Saturday from 7 p.m. to 3 a.m.

Agios Aggelos: A Greek landmark in Zapopan

Greeks began arriving in Guadalajara during the 1930s. Looking to escape the turmoil of the inter-war period, many were en route to the United States while others stayed put in the city. Though only remnants of that community exist today, one of those remnants happens to be a fabulous place to eat. German Rallis, whose family owned a Greek restaurant in downtown Guadalajara in the 1940s, decided to open his own place, Agios Aggelos, several years ago. "I wanted to create something that could become a focal point for what is left of the Greek community -- to eat, drink, have a coffee. And in the plaza, in March, we hold a Greek festival, with food for the public, and where families come to dance and prepare their own dishes."

Located right next to the Zapopan arches, and with outside seating in good weather, it boasts one of most pleasant dining atmospheres in the metropolitan area. And the food only adds to the experience. Not so far ago, GR restaurant critic Glenn Bernard praised the extensive wine list, and a tangy feta cheese described as "the real McCoy." He went on to write: "Main dishes range from Pastitsio (described by one Greek culinary wit as a cross between lasagna and shepherd's pie), to Moussaka (baked eggplant filled with ground meat and Mediterranean seasonings), and an unusually tasty Spanakopita (a warm tart made of fresh spinach and cheese, enclosed in flaky pastry). All the above are accompanied by a Greek salad with yogurt dressing, and a lovely puree of potatoes laced with garlic and olive oil, called Scorthalia, or alternatively, an Athenian potato salad. Tsatziki, a zesty cucumber dipping sauce, is served on the side. The chef displays a sure hand throughout, from first course through baklava for dessert."
Agios Aggelos, located at 20 de Noviembre 356 is open Sunday to Thursday 8:30 a.m. to 1 a.m., Friday and Saturday until 3 a.m. Telephone: 3833-1131.

Review: The road to Sacromonte

The food at El Sacramonte, a charming, classy hacienda on Pedro Moreno near Chapultepec, is well-prepared and well-presented, cooked right and accompanied by delicious sauces. The cuisine is alta cocina, traditional Mexican with a contemporary gourmet flair. 
The Delgadillo family opened El Sacromonte seventeen years ago, after running a catering business for 16 years. Co-owner Gerardo Delgadillo explains that the recipes, created by his brother Juan, are all based on their grandmother's traditional dishes. The contemporary treatments attract an international clientele. (Tapatíos, says Gerardo, are sometimes more likely to try Italian or Chinese restaurants than a contemporary take on their old favorites.) 
The décor is old school but upscale, the walls covered with black-and-white images of old cantinas, movie stars, and, most prominently, bullfights. The waitstaff is professional and the menus entertaining. The latter more so if you get the English version, as the dish descriptions, while lyrical in Spanish, become even more poetic after translation. Consider:
"Ambrosia of a short extended instant." (Santa Anita's Tartar, an appetizer with avocado, huitlacoche -Corn smut, a rare and delicious fungus from corn- rice, and shrimp with guajillo cream).
"And the fist of salt that fills our life with appetites." (Cream El Viejo Progresso, Roquefort cheese cooked with chipotle chile).
"Unfolding exuberant palm-tree, a fan at the border of the courtyard." (Pork chops "The Swamp," wrapped with banana-tree leaves pibil style, accompanied by purple onion).
"Appetite sharing till delirium and from between the lips there slips a smile." (Chicken Delirium, filled with huitlacoche and cactus bathed in its pineapple sauce and green onions).
There's plenty more where that came from, and this isn't a matter of mocking the translation. On the contrary, I think the occasionally curious translation helps to increase the lyrical essence the owners hoped to capture, the combination of grandiose tradition and artistic gourmet savvy. Or at least I'm likely to buy into that after a thoroughly satisfying meal and a few good drinks (Sacramonte also features a full bar). 
I recommend the above-mentioned pork (Chamorrito El Manglar, 150 pesos), the meat tender and falling off the bone, along with the kicky Santa Anita's Tartar (140 pesos) and the dessert of your choice, each beautifully prepared atop swirling designs of natural fruit sauces. "The food comes in first through your eyes," says Gerardo, and it takes a delightful journey from there.

Pedro Moreno 1398, Colonia Americana, 44160
Phone: 3825-5447
Hours: Mon-Sat 1:30 p.m. to midnight. Sun 1:30 p.m. to 6:00 p.m.

Around the world on a table

Cosmopolitan Guadalajara is home to a wide range of international restaurants.

There are now so many that it has become harder than ever to decide where to eat out. Fortunately for you, the Reporter has compiled a guide to some of the best foreign cuisine available within the metropolitan zone.

Argentine

Savora (Terranova 122; 3642-7550; Mon-Sat: 1 p.m. to midnight; Sun: 1 p.m. to 8 p.m.) is a must-visit because of its “pepitos,” hearty steak sandwiches best accompanied with melted cheese and chimichurri sauce.

Baires (Niño Obrero 618; 3123-0843; Mon-Sun: 2 p.m. to midnight) has a great range of empanadas, salads, steaks, seafood, pasta, pizza and some delicious sounding desserts.

The Vaca Argentina (Tomas V. Gomez 25; 3630-1160; Mon-Sat: 2 p.m. to midnight; Sun: 2 p.m. to 6 p.m.) is routinely rated as one of the best restaurants in Guadalajara at www.tripadvisor.com (it is currently ranked second) and boasts arguably the best beef and service in the city.

Finally, La Estancia Gaucha (Niños Heroes 2860; 3122-6565; Americas 1545; 3817-1808; Mon-Sat: 1 p.m. to midnight) is another highly rated establishment specializing in steak and ribs, plus all the usual Argentine fare.

Brazilian

Brazilian food means lots and lots of meat. The recently opened restaurant Mr. Pampas (Mariano Otero 1985; 3121-6190; Mon-Sun: 1 p.m. to midnight) serves quality steak, ribs, shrimp and chicken, while Scratch Do Ouro (Prolongacion Americas 350; 3633-9901; Mon-Sun: 1 p.m to 11 p.m.) invites diners to take adavantage of the all-you-can-eat buffet for 240 pesos. At weekends the latter joint also has live batucada music, a samba style percussion with African influences.

Chilean

Famed for its “pastel de choclo” – a kind of corn-topped casserole – Puro Chile (Lopez Cotilla 1959; 3616-5868; Tue-Sat: 2 p.m. to midnight; Sun: 2 p.m. to 7 p.m.) is decorated with photographs and maps of Chile, plays traditional and contemporary Chilean music and stocks a range of top Chilean beers and wines, as well as serving the distinctive national drink, pisco sours.

Chinese

Located beside the Glorieta Chapalita, Shanghai (Guadalupe 1162; 3121-6333; Mon-Sun: midday to 11 p.m.) is a typical Chinese restaurant that serves classic dishes but enjoys a much better reputation than the myriad of low quality Chinese establishments found in downtown Guadalajara. For those in search of something a little different, the lamb with mint, garlic and cumin from P.F Changs (Plaza Andares; 3611-3294; Mon-Thu: midday to midnight; Fri-Sat: midday to 1 a.m.; Sun: 1 p.m. to 10 p.m.) comes highly recommended, while the Dragon de Oro (Americas 1637; 3817-1655; Tue-Thu: 1 p.m. to 8 p.m.; Fri-Sat: 1 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Sun: 1 p.m. to 10 p.m.) has curry, quail, duck and vegetarian options alongside all your oriental favorites.

Cuban

For traditional Cuban food and drink head downtown to Rincon de Aqueremi (La Paz 99; 3614-2569; Mon-Thu: 8 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Fri-Sat: 2 p.m. to 3 a.m.). Elsewhere, La Bodeguita del Medio (Vallarta 2320; 3630-1620; Sun-Wed: 1.30 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Thu-Sat: 1.30 a.m. to 2.30 a.m.) is a bar not a restaurant, but aside from offering mojitos and free salsa lessons it serves a few Cuban dishes including “camarones borrachitos” – shrimp flambeed with rum.

French

Since relocating in 1999, after a couple of false starts in different parts of the city, Chez Nene (Juan Palomar y Arias 426; 3673-4564; Tues: 7 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Wed-Sat: 2 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Sun: 2 p.m. to 6 p.m.) has established itself as one of Guadalajara’s finest French restaurants. Guests can expect friendly service, fresh ingredients and a daily menu based on whatever French expat chef Gerard Faure feels like rustling up.

Another firm favorite is Pierrot (Justo Sierra 2355; 3615-4758; Mon-Sat: 1.30 p.m. to 1 a.m.), an intimate Parisian-style bistro that has been serving excellent, elegant food to Tapatios for over 30 years.

For a host of French favorites, including snails, duck l’orange, croque-monsieurs, ratatouile and crepes, head over to Chez Chou Chou (Pedro Moreno 1290; 3825-0218; Mon-Sat: 12.30 p.m. to 1.30 a.m.)

Alternatively, for a high-end dip, try the rich fondoues accompanied with lobster and caviar at El Fondue Gourmet (La Paz 1887; 3335-9725; Mon-Sat: 7 a.m. to 1 a.m.).

German

Der Krug Brauhaus (Miguel de Cervantes Aavedra 15; Mon-Sat: 1.30 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Sun: 2 p.m. to 7 p.m.) is a microbrewery which serves pretzels, German sausages and wiener schnitzel to accompany its German-style ales.

Greek

With two branches in the city, Agios Aggelos (20 de Noviembre 356, Zapopan; 3833-1131; Mon-Sun: 9 a.m. to midnight / Tepeyac 1379; 3647-3999; Mon-Sun: 2 p.m. to midnight) is the place to go for Mediterranean cuisine. The menu includes kebabs, a wonderful moussaka and delicious goat’s cheese salads that combine perfectly with tzatziki and balsamic vinegar.

Indian

Serving naan bread, samosas and spicy Indian classics, Goa (Lopez Cotilla 1520; 3615-6173; Tues-Sat: 1 p.m. to midight; Sun: 1 p.m. to 8 p.m.) is probably Guadalajara’s best known curry house, but the food is even better just a few blocks away at Little India (Miguel de Cervantes 149; 3630-9315; Mon-Sun: 1.30 p.m. to 11.30 p.m.), which boasts a large, authentic menu with many meat and vegetarian options.

Italian

A relatively new restaurant, La Pasteria (Terranova 1171; 3642-6797) serves nothing but freshly cooked pasta in a variety of sumptuous sauces, plus some non-pasta starters including stuffed aubergine and breaded mozzarella balls. The spinach and ricotta ravioli in pine-nut sauce is excellent.

Elsewhere, La Trattoria (Niños Heroes 3051; 3122-1817; Mon-Sat: 1 p.m. to midnight; Sun: 1 p.m. to 9 p.m.) is a popular and unpretentious option, with a wide selection of pizzas, pasta, meats, seafood, a complimentary salad bar and classics such as tiramisu and panna cotta for dessert. Open since 1976, this establishment is known for its great service and a warm atmosphere.

The simply named El Italiano (Avenida Mexico 3130; 3813-2984; Mon-Thu: 1 p.m. to midnight; Fri-Sat: 1 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Sun: 1 p.m. to 11 p.m.) is also highly rated for its delicious, well presented dishes and perhaps the finest gourmet pizzas to be found in Guadalajara.

Japanese

With very fresh fish and a good selection of beers from all over the world, Toyo (Avenida Mexico 2097; 3616-3513; Mon-Sat: 1 p.m. to 1 p.m.; Sun: 1 p.m.  to 8 p.m.) is one of the best rated Japanese restaurants in Guadalajara. The owners also run a shop next door selling rare and exotic ingredients.

A Japanese chain, Moshi Moshi (Plaza Andares; 3611-1144; Mon-Tue: 1.30 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Thu: 1.30 p.m. to midnight; Fri-Sat: 1.30 p.m. to 1.30 a.m.; Sun: 1.30 p.m. to 10 p.m.) has a revolving belt laden with 34 types of sushi, including crab, shrimp, avocado and cucumber variations. Traditional meals such as tempura and sashimi are also available, while the drinks menu includes saki, some great cocktails, and Calpico, a non-carbonated Japanese soft drink made from non-fat milk.

Korean

Gami (Bernardo de Balbuena 872; 3642-5809; Mon-Sun: 1 p.m. to 10 p.m.) does Korean-style seafood, with shrimp, crab, salmon and octopus dishes big enough to share between two or three people.

Lebanese

For an exotic experience, go to Beirut (Lopez Mateos 1308; 3120-5050; Tue-Thu: 2 p.m. to midnight; Fri-Sat: 2 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Sun:  2 p.m to 6 p.m.) for a tasty “taco arabe,” a relaxing smoke in the shisha bar, or to watch the bellydancing show every Friday at 9.30 p.m.

El Libanes (Lopez Mateos Sur 550; 3121-3009; Tue: 1.30 p.m. to 9.30 p.m.; Wed-Sat: 1.30 p.m. to 2 a.m.; Sun: 1.30 p.m. to 6 p.m.) also has belly dancing every Saturday and Sunday, plus a buffet with over 30 dishes from Thursday to Sunday, and “bohemian nights” which include dinner, singing and dancing every Wednesday and Thursday.

For a simpler dining experience, Shawarma (Inglaterra 4964; 3629-1640; Mon-Sat: midday to 11 p.m.; Sun: midday to 7 p.m.) is a small eatery that serves kebabs, falafel and a tasty date flan.

Portuguese

Portugalia (Hidalgo 1364; 3825-3404; Mon-Sun: 1.30 p.m. to midnight) is a Portuguese diner run by a Lisbon native who has lived in Guadalajara for 18 years. The ever-changing menu includes soups, cod, shrimp, octopus and other seafood dishes, Angolan influences and traditional Portuguese desserts.

Elsewhere, Fonda Portuguesa (Morelos 1695; 1368-2600; Mon-Thu: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Fri: 9 a.m. to 1 a.m.; Sat: 1.30 p.m. to 1 a.m.) is a simple place that serves tapas, sandwiches, salads and cod in many forms.

Spanish

Visit Chemary (Guadalupe 596; 3121-2951; Mon-Sun: 1 p.m. to midnight) to enjoy traditional Spanish cuisine and exquisite cava while listening to live pianists.

If you want to throw a Spanish style fiesta at home, Paella Club (Guadalupe 4205; 3121-6008; Mon-Sun: 8 a.m. to 11 p.m.) is a great place to bulk buy paella.

Another option for Spanish and international dishes is Recoveco (Agustin Yañez 2639; 3616-5627; Mon-Sat: 1 p.m. to 1 a.m.), while Riscal (Lopez Cotilla 1751; 3616-8677; Mon-Fri: 2 p.m. to 10 p.m., Sat-Sun: 2 p.m. to 6 p.m.) serves paella and San Sebastian style robalo.

Thai

Tai Spice (Inglaterra 4887; 3110-6388; Mon-Thu: 1 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Fri-Sat: 1 p.m. to midnight; Sun: midday to 8 p.m.) has a wonderful menu featuring red or green thai curry, salads, soups and chicken, beef, duck or shrimp variations with plenty of exotic ingredients such as coconut, ginger, lemongrass, fish sauce and peanuts.

Uruguayan

La Parrilla del Uruguay (Olivos 14, Prados Tepeyac; 3647-9066) is a steakhouse run by a former professional soccer player and decorated with memorabilia from his playing days. Not unlike the city’s Argentine restaurants, La Parrilla is popular for its choripan and fine cuts of meat.

Going gourmet in Guadalajara

As promised, here is our guide to the best gourmet/fusion eateries in Guadalajara.

Of course, our opinions are subjective and we would welcome any additions to this list, which we will gladly publish. Prices can vary, but suffice to say that none of the restaurants mentioned here are budget options, although they compare very favorably with similar establishments both north of the border, and even in Mexico City.

· Lula Bistro, San Gabriel 303, Colonia Chapalita, 3647-6423, Mon-Sat 2 p.m. to midnight.

Award-winning eatery led by top Irish chef Darren Walsh, who worked with Gordon Ramsay in London, as well as in New York. Innovation, creativity and presentation reaches new heights for a Guadalajara restaurant.

Demetria, Av. La Paz 2219, corner of Americas, 3818-0060, Mon-Sat: 8 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sun: 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Part of an avant garde hotel/spa complex, Demetria has been gaining fans since its opening last year.  Includes ancient Mexican recipes with a modern touch. Fish a specialty.

· Eikki, Parque Juan Diego 101, corner Av. de las Rosas, 1057-0814, Mon-Sat: 2 p.m. to 11 p.m.

Part of a boutique hotel (Hotel Clarum 101) in Colonia Chapalita, Eikki is easily among the top five gourmet eateries, say knowledgeable foodies. Ask for the five-course “menu degustacion” (taster menu) paired with wines on your first visit.

· Sybarite, Av. Terranova 648, 3642-2223, Tue-Sat 1:30 p.m. to midnight, Sun 1:30 p.m. to 6 p.m.

Good grapevine buzz and gaining in popularity, Sybarite offers interesting culinary options, such as duck tacos, as well as a pleasant terrace. Good wine cellar and reasonably priced.

· Vincent by Vango, Paseo Andares, corner Blvd. Puerta de Hierro, 3611-1207, Mon-Thur 1:30 p.m. to 2 a.m., Fri & Sat 1:30 p.m. to 3 a.m., Sun: 1.30 p.m. to 10.30 p.m.

With modern decor and aimed at a trendy crowd, Vincent Vango has a varied menu, including its famed lobster tacos. Located in the upmarket Andares Mall.

· Santo Coyote, Lerdo de Tejada 2379, corner Francisco Javier Gamboa, 3616-6978, Mon-Sun: 8 a.m. to 12.30 a.m.

One of the oldest establishments on the list, the lavishly adorned Santo Coyote has a New Mexico theme but fuses traditional flavors and dishes from Mexico with other countries. Sit among trees and waterfalls, listen to mariachis, and even have salsa prepared at your table. Breakfast buffets daily, also lunch buffet on Saturdays and Sundays. An experience in itself.

· Ofelia Bistro, Av. Pablo Neruda 2707, 3817-4067, Mon-Sat 1:30 p.m. to 3 a.m.

Agreeable, cozy ambience, with creative cuisine and attentive staff. Try the roast beef!

Cabernet, Puerta de Hierro 4965/Paseo VIP, local 425, 3611-1975, Mon-Thur 1 p.m. to midnight, Fri & Sat until 1 a.m., Sun until 10 p.m.

Another gem in the Andares Mall that melds French cuisine with Mexican touches.

· I Latina, Av. Inglaterra 3128, 3647-7774, Tue-Sat 7:30 p.m. to 1 p.m., Sun 1:30 p.m. to 6 p.m.

Fusion with a capital “F” mixes Italian, Thai and Mediterranean flavors. Cool artistic decorations. Said one diner: “A Mexican version of Manhattan vibe.” Good cocktails, too.

· Paralelo 28, Av. Providencia 2889, 3642-9616, Mon-Thu: 2 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Fri & Sat: 2 p.m. to 2 a.m.; Sun: 1 p.m. to 5.30 p.m.

Chef David Salgado from Ensenada, Baja California brings his undoubtable talents and meticulous presentation to this small and relaxed restaurant. Enjoy a mixture of textures and flavors.

· La Tequila, Avenida Mexico 2830, 3640-3440. Mon-Sun: 1 p.m. to 12.30 a.m.

Not exactly gourmet but a tremendous experience and fine Mexican themed dishes. Try gusanos de maguey (worms in maguey) or crickets if you’re brave. More than 500 different tequilas on site. Don’t taste them all or you’ll not make it home. Great place to take visitors.

· Cocina 88, Av. Vallarta 1342, Zona Minerva, 3827-5996. Mon-Sat: 1.30 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Sun: 2 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Nicely prepared steaks and seafood in a dramatic setting in a 100-year-old colonial building on one of Guadalajara’s premier avenues. Gets full in the evenings with younger, hipper crowd.

Plaza Las Ramblas: Foodie Focus

One of the latest malls to open in Guadalajara can be found at the southern end of Avenida Chapultepec in the ritzy area often referred to the Zona Rosa (Pink Zone).
Situated around the base of the four towers of the luxury Horizontes Chapultepec residential complex, Plaza Las Ramblas is heavy on food options, with a large selection of restaurants, delis, cafes and bars.
Restaurants include I-Hop, California Lobster, Puerta 39 (seafood), Boca de Casta (grilled meats), Terraza Italiano, Chiltepinos, Fat Fish (sushi bar), Gin Club and Chat Lunatique (French). Among the cafes are Estacion de Lulia (bike rental outside) and Punta de Cielo, while other food-related establishments include a juice bar (Curacao), crepes (Crepetite), ice cream (Haagen Dazs, Yomood), chocolates (Las Sapas Chocolates), Mexican fast food (Burro Bronco, Qasera) and hamburgers (Las Hamburgesas de Tom).
Other stores catering to mainly middle-class tastes includes GNC nutrition, Pet Planet, Besame (imported lingerie), Maria Engracia, Maker’s (stylish shoes), Skincare Kopay, Paper City (stationary products) and Trevo, Lust (boutiques). There’s also a money exchange house, dental clinic and a ludoteca –  a place to leave small kids to play while parents do other things.   Oddly for a brand new mall, most of the spaces are filled, although the first floor still has three large locales still for rent.   The entrances to the four Horizontes Chapultepec towers (named Montmatre, Tribeca, Soho and Recolecta) are dispersed around the ground floor of the mall, making these services very convenient for residents.
Many of the 300-plus apartments in the 19-floor towers are still on the market.  They carry quite hefty price tags since all include luxury extras such as 24-hour security, underground parking, gymnasiums, multiple use salons, swimming pools, green areas, roof gardens, and snack and barbecue areas. Three architectural firms were used on the towers, which each feature unique designs.
Although different prices can be found through local relators, the average price for a two-bedroom, 98-square-meter apartment seems to be around 2.5 million pesos. One agent is currently listing a 133-square meter apartment for 2.9 million pesos, while another has a 210-meter property with a 60-square-meter terrace on the market for 5.4 million pesos.
Views from the higher apartments are spectacular and the complex looks down on the busy Niños Heroes traffic circle, and the monument to the nation’s “Boy Heroes” who died for their country in the Mexican-American War of the mid-1800s.
To learn more about the apartments and the mall visit horizonteschapultepec.com.mx.