Scratch do Ouro: The gold from Brazil

Three young soccer players from Brazil came to Guadalajara two decades ago and never looked back. The people of Mexico welcomed them to their new home with open arms, and they have decided to share their culture in return.

More than a decade ago, Paulo Cesar Silva, Renato Porto and Edso Luis cut the ribbon on one of the city's liveliest Brazilian restaurants, Scratch do Ouro. Located in tranquil Zapopan, the secret of this restaurant's excellent cuisine and service has since spread throughout the resident Brazilian and native Mexican populations. And now the English-speaking community is finding out about this South American treasure.
Brasileña invades all your senses at Scratch do Ouro. Below the sky light running the length of the restaurant lies a cozy wooden dance floor surrounded by green, blue and yellow banners suspended from the ceiling. On your left you might see Paulo preparing a skewer loaded with freshly barbecued steak, smiling his welcome from the kitchen. In seconds, Renato or Filip Berto, one of Scratch do Ouro's bilingual waiters, greets the guests and shows them to their table.
The tables are laid out with Brazil's national colors. Once accommodated, Filip will hand you a menu and take your order for drinks. He returns shortly with a large tray full of over a half dozen Brazilian appetizers ranging from spicy baked potatoes, vegetables and empanadas to macaroni salad and onion rings. Then he explains what that funny looking thing on the table is for.
Half red, half green, the object in question is shaped like an hour glass and called the semaforo de carne –the meat traffic light. When the red end is up it means that all is well and diners are not ready for the main course. Once turned green end up, the constant flow of waiters streaming out of the kitchen will pause at the table and serve onto your cutting board –no plates here– whichever specialty meats they happen to have on the skewer. Top sirloin, three other cuts of beef, chicken legs and pork ribs can be summoned to the table simply by turning the semaforo.
After a full dinner you can sip on a Caipirinha Brasileira, the specialty drink of the house while taking in Brazil's next soccer victory on TV. But be warned that when the house favorite scores, the place comes alive with cheers and the Brazilian rhythms of a band of drummers. The drummers weave through the tables, gathering the jubilant fans and leading them to the dance floor where Renato shows them how to dance where he comes from. Regardless of whether Brazil is playing or not, Saturday and Sunday afternoons feature dancing.
The name Scratch do Ouro comes from the owners soccer-playing background and signifies, quite simply, the best or championship team, which is in this case, the Brazilian national team. For interested soccer fans, is not uncommon that Brazil's team show up to eat at the restaurant when in town, like in 1999 when FIFA Copa Confederaciones was held in Guadalajara.
Paulo, Renato and Edso welcome guests to dine with them from 1 p.m. to 11 p.m. daily. The huge variety of drinks are two-for-one all day, and for groups of ten or more, two get to eat free.
For the quality of food and the service, the all-you-can-eat price of 280 pesos for adults and 140 pesos for children is a steal.
After 7:00 p.m. they have a special price of 199 pesos for adults. 
For those who just want to feast on the meatless appetizers the price is the same as the children's.

Scratch do Ouro is wheelchair accessible and located at Avenida Americas 350, in Zapopan, just north of Plaza Patria. There is ample parking and a small playground for the kids.

Around the world on a table

Cosmopolitan Guadalajara is home to a wide range of international restaurants.

There are now so many that it has become harder than ever to decide where to eat out. Fortunately for you, the Reporter has compiled a guide to some of the best foreign cuisine available within the metropolitan zone.

Argentine

Savora (Terranova 122; 3642-7550; Mon-Sat: 1 p.m. to midnight; Sun: 1 p.m. to 8 p.m.) is a must-visit because of its “pepitos,” hearty steak sandwiches best accompanied with melted cheese and chimichurri sauce.

Baires (Niño Obrero 618; 3123-0843; Mon-Sun: 2 p.m. to midnight) has a great range of empanadas, salads, steaks, seafood, pasta, pizza and some delicious sounding desserts.

The Vaca Argentina (Tomas V. Gomez 25; 3630-1160; Mon-Sat: 2 p.m. to midnight; Sun: 2 p.m. to 6 p.m.) is routinely rated as one of the best restaurants in Guadalajara at www.tripadvisor.com (it is currently ranked second) and boasts arguably the best beef and service in the city.

Finally, La Estancia Gaucha (Niños Heroes 2860; 3122-6565; Americas 1545; 3817-1808; Mon-Sat: 1 p.m. to midnight) is another highly rated establishment specializing in steak and ribs, plus all the usual Argentine fare.

Brazilian

Brazilian food means lots and lots of meat. The recently opened restaurant Mr. Pampas (Mariano Otero 1985; 3121-6190; Mon-Sun: 1 p.m. to midnight) serves quality steak, ribs, shrimp and chicken, while Scratch Do Ouro (Prolongacion Americas 350; 3633-9901; Mon-Sun: 1 p.m to 11 p.m.) invites diners to take adavantage of the all-you-can-eat buffet for 240 pesos. At weekends the latter joint also has live batucada music, a samba style percussion with African influences.

Chilean

Famed for its “pastel de choclo” – a kind of corn-topped casserole – Puro Chile (Lopez Cotilla 1959; 3616-5868; Tue-Sat: 2 p.m. to midnight; Sun: 2 p.m. to 7 p.m.) is decorated with photographs and maps of Chile, plays traditional and contemporary Chilean music and stocks a range of top Chilean beers and wines, as well as serving the distinctive national drink, pisco sours.

Chinese

Located beside the Glorieta Chapalita, Shanghai (Guadalupe 1162; 3121-6333; Mon-Sun: midday to 11 p.m.) is a typical Chinese restaurant that serves classic dishes but enjoys a much better reputation than the myriad of low quality Chinese establishments found in downtown Guadalajara. For those in search of something a little different, the lamb with mint, garlic and cumin from P.F Changs (Plaza Andares; 3611-3294; Mon-Thu: midday to midnight; Fri-Sat: midday to 1 a.m.; Sun: 1 p.m. to 10 p.m.) comes highly recommended, while the Dragon de Oro (Americas 1637; 3817-1655; Tue-Thu: 1 p.m. to 8 p.m.; Fri-Sat: 1 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Sun: 1 p.m. to 10 p.m.) has curry, quail, duck and vegetarian options alongside all your oriental favorites.

Cuban

For traditional Cuban food and drink head downtown to Rincon de Aqueremi (La Paz 99; 3614-2569; Mon-Thu: 8 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Fri-Sat: 2 p.m. to 3 a.m.). Elsewhere, La Bodeguita del Medio (Vallarta 2320; 3630-1620; Sun-Wed: 1.30 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Thu-Sat: 1.30 a.m. to 2.30 a.m.) is a bar not a restaurant, but aside from offering mojitos and free salsa lessons it serves a few Cuban dishes including “camarones borrachitos” – shrimp flambeed with rum.

French

Since relocating in 1999, after a couple of false starts in different parts of the city, Chez Nene (Juan Palomar y Arias 426; 3673-4564; Tues: 7 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Wed-Sat: 2 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Sun: 2 p.m. to 6 p.m.) has established itself as one of Guadalajara’s finest French restaurants. Guests can expect friendly service, fresh ingredients and a daily menu based on whatever French expat chef Gerard Faure feels like rustling up.

Another firm favorite is Pierrot (Justo Sierra 2355; 3615-4758; Mon-Sat: 1.30 p.m. to 1 a.m.), an intimate Parisian-style bistro that has been serving excellent, elegant food to Tapatios for over 30 years.

For a host of French favorites, including snails, duck l’orange, croque-monsieurs, ratatouile and crepes, head over to Chez Chou Chou (Pedro Moreno 1290; 3825-0218; Mon-Sat: 12.30 p.m. to 1.30 a.m.)

Alternatively, for a high-end dip, try the rich fondoues accompanied with lobster and caviar at El Fondue Gourmet (La Paz 1887; 3335-9725; Mon-Sat: 7 a.m. to 1 a.m.).

German

Der Krug Brauhaus (Miguel de Cervantes Aavedra 15; Mon-Sat: 1.30 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Sun: 2 p.m. to 7 p.m.) is a microbrewery which serves pretzels, German sausages and wiener schnitzel to accompany its German-style ales.

Greek

With two branches in the city, Agios Aggelos (20 de Noviembre 356, Zapopan; 3833-1131; Mon-Sun: 9 a.m. to midnight / Tepeyac 1379; 3647-3999; Mon-Sun: 2 p.m. to midnight) is the place to go for Mediterranean cuisine. The menu includes kebabs, a wonderful moussaka and delicious goat’s cheese salads that combine perfectly with tzatziki and balsamic vinegar.

Indian

Serving naan bread, samosas and spicy Indian classics, Goa (Lopez Cotilla 1520; 3615-6173; Tues-Sat: 1 p.m. to midight; Sun: 1 p.m. to 8 p.m.) is probably Guadalajara’s best known curry house, but the food is even better just a few blocks away at Little India (Miguel de Cervantes 149; 3630-9315; Mon-Sun: 1.30 p.m. to 11.30 p.m.), which boasts a large, authentic menu with many meat and vegetarian options.

Italian

A relatively new restaurant, La Pasteria (Terranova 1171; 3642-6797) serves nothing but freshly cooked pasta in a variety of sumptuous sauces, plus some non-pasta starters including stuffed aubergine and breaded mozzarella balls. The spinach and ricotta ravioli in pine-nut sauce is excellent.

Elsewhere, La Trattoria (Niños Heroes 3051; 3122-1817; Mon-Sat: 1 p.m. to midnight; Sun: 1 p.m. to 9 p.m.) is a popular and unpretentious option, with a wide selection of pizzas, pasta, meats, seafood, a complimentary salad bar and classics such as tiramisu and panna cotta for dessert. Open since 1976, this establishment is known for its great service and a warm atmosphere.

The simply named El Italiano (Avenida Mexico 3130; 3813-2984; Mon-Thu: 1 p.m. to midnight; Fri-Sat: 1 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Sun: 1 p.m. to 11 p.m.) is also highly rated for its delicious, well presented dishes and perhaps the finest gourmet pizzas to be found in Guadalajara.

Japanese

With very fresh fish and a good selection of beers from all over the world, Toyo (Avenida Mexico 2097; 3616-3513; Mon-Sat: 1 p.m. to 1 p.m.; Sun: 1 p.m.  to 8 p.m.) is one of the best rated Japanese restaurants in Guadalajara. The owners also run a shop next door selling rare and exotic ingredients.

A Japanese chain, Moshi Moshi (Plaza Andares; 3611-1144; Mon-Tue: 1.30 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Thu: 1.30 p.m. to midnight; Fri-Sat: 1.30 p.m. to 1.30 a.m.; Sun: 1.30 p.m. to 10 p.m.) has a revolving belt laden with 34 types of sushi, including crab, shrimp, avocado and cucumber variations. Traditional meals such as tempura and sashimi are also available, while the drinks menu includes saki, some great cocktails, and Calpico, a non-carbonated Japanese soft drink made from non-fat milk.

Korean

Gami (Bernardo de Balbuena 872; 3642-5809; Mon-Sun: 1 p.m. to 10 p.m.) does Korean-style seafood, with shrimp, crab, salmon and octopus dishes big enough to share between two or three people.

Lebanese

For an exotic experience, go to Beirut (Lopez Mateos 1308; 3120-5050; Tue-Thu: 2 p.m. to midnight; Fri-Sat: 2 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Sun:  2 p.m to 6 p.m.) for a tasty “taco arabe,” a relaxing smoke in the shisha bar, or to watch the bellydancing show every Friday at 9.30 p.m.

El Libanes (Lopez Mateos Sur 550; 3121-3009; Tue: 1.30 p.m. to 9.30 p.m.; Wed-Sat: 1.30 p.m. to 2 a.m.; Sun: 1.30 p.m. to 6 p.m.) also has belly dancing every Saturday and Sunday, plus a buffet with over 30 dishes from Thursday to Sunday, and “bohemian nights” which include dinner, singing and dancing every Wednesday and Thursday.

For a simpler dining experience, Shawarma (Inglaterra 4964; 3629-1640; Mon-Sat: midday to 11 p.m.; Sun: midday to 7 p.m.) is a small eatery that serves kebabs, falafel and a tasty date flan.

Portuguese

Portugalia (Hidalgo 1364; 3825-3404; Mon-Sun: 1.30 p.m. to midnight) is a Portuguese diner run by a Lisbon native who has lived in Guadalajara for 18 years. The ever-changing menu includes soups, cod, shrimp, octopus and other seafood dishes, Angolan influences and traditional Portuguese desserts.

Elsewhere, Fonda Portuguesa (Morelos 1695; 1368-2600; Mon-Thu: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Fri: 9 a.m. to 1 a.m.; Sat: 1.30 p.m. to 1 a.m.) is a simple place that serves tapas, sandwiches, salads and cod in many forms.

Spanish

Visit Chemary (Guadalupe 596; 3121-2951; Mon-Sun: 1 p.m. to midnight) to enjoy traditional Spanish cuisine and exquisite cava while listening to live pianists.

If you want to throw a Spanish style fiesta at home, Paella Club (Guadalupe 4205; 3121-6008; Mon-Sun: 8 a.m. to 11 p.m.) is a great place to bulk buy paella.

Another option for Spanish and international dishes is Recoveco (Agustin Yañez 2639; 3616-5627; Mon-Sat: 1 p.m. to 1 a.m.), while Riscal (Lopez Cotilla 1751; 3616-8677; Mon-Fri: 2 p.m. to 10 p.m., Sat-Sun: 2 p.m. to 6 p.m.) serves paella and San Sebastian style robalo.

Thai

Tai Spice (Inglaterra 4887; 3110-6388; Mon-Thu: 1 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Fri-Sat: 1 p.m. to midnight; Sun: midday to 8 p.m.) has a wonderful menu featuring red or green thai curry, salads, soups and chicken, beef, duck or shrimp variations with plenty of exotic ingredients such as coconut, ginger, lemongrass, fish sauce and peanuts.

Uruguayan

La Parrilla del Uruguay (Olivos 14, Prados Tepeyac; 3647-9066) is a steakhouse run by a former professional soccer player and decorated with memorabilia from his playing days. Not unlike the city’s Argentine restaurants, La Parrilla is popular for its choripan and fine cuts of meat.